RETURN OF THE LADY...



Marc Jacobs Fall 2011

  It is a simple four-letter word: lady - one we're all going to be hearing a lot more about that in the next few months. Just when you thought you were finally grasping the concept of "casual dress," along comes the latest ladylike look, with a figure-friendly trend that harks back to an age of grown up glamour. 

The recent New York Fashion Week was full of sleek collections inspired by the roaring Forties and glamorous Seventies. Autumn 2011 will be a seriously chic affair, judging by the latest round of shows..

Rodarte showed a collection of exquisite, flowing dresses, beaded, draped in a subtle colour pallette of cream and grey. There were were coats, for the first time, high-waisted trousers and elegant evening gowns that will be on every fashion follower's wish list next season.

Marc Jacobs, on the other hand,  went for vintage ladylike silhouettes and modern shapes for his fall collection."I thought it was great," said Virginia Smith, the Vogue fashion market director. "It was a mad mix of futuristic '40s."The spectacular show featured: pencil skirts, high-neck blouses, sheer tops, pillbox hats and more lace and towering heels than most people could digest.

 



Donna  Karen 2011



Victoria Beckham - known for her highly groomed , sophisticated look - certainly reflected personal style in her most recent show. This latest collection moved her silhouette on from structured dresses - of which there were still plenty - to include a relaxed, looser outline.

Victoria Beckham spring 2011

 

So why has fashion suddenly gone all prim and proper? In a word, wearability. Given how much the fashion industry has struggled in the past few years as a result of the economic downturn, trends that women actually want to buy and wear just seems to make sense. But there's more to the new lady-like trend than pure nostalgia. There's the figure-flattering style of the clothes for a start, designed to make women look and feel better.

While the style bible Vogue may have championed the ladylike trend in its recent issues with heavyweight labels such as Dior and Chanel it is possible to get the look on the high street for a fraction of the cost. Zara and Wallis are brimming with catwalk-inspired skirt suits, jackets with nipped-in waists, tailored trousers and pencil skirts. Blouses can be found in delicate chiffon, accessorised with statement neck-ties, frills or feminine embroidery.And Coast and Karen Millen also cut fine figures with directional suits and ultra- ladylike silk blouses and tops.

To be fair, the clothes as imagined by Marc Jacobs are extremely appealing on Gisele Bundchen (who wouldn't be seen dead in a tweed skirt suit or a pussy-bow blouse in her normal life) and certainly seem desirable on glossy paper, but when mere mortals, such as myself, emulate the look we can look more frumpy than fabulous - especially over the age of 25.

To avoid the frump factor - a tweed jacket or coat must be fitted to the waist or have a belt, otherwise you will look fat. Don't wear a full skirt that flares from the hips - it's unflattering; make sure it flares out from the mid thigh and is smoothed over the hips. To really work the look - invest in a pencil skirt because there's simply nothing like a well-cut skirt to make a girl feel like a lady. High on the waist and tailored neatly over the hips and thighs - the perfect pencil can transform you from ordinary girl to supermodel in an instant.

 Think of accessorising as the finishing school of ladylike fashion. Pick up the highest of heels,an elegant clutch, dress gloves and hairpieces with veils.

Just resist the urge to wear them with an apron and ask "How was your day, darling?"

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Leopard print: Can you change your spots and learn to love leopard print?



Illustration by Georgina Heffernan



Every second winter without fail; the high street explodes in a maelstrom of sequins, shimmer - and leopard print but out of all the fabrics this is the one that seems to scream 'mutton dressed as lamb‘. What to do? This is a look that just refuses to die and time and time again it turns up stamped on everything from dainty clutch bags to chiffon blouses, trousers and long slip dresses. Out of the entire trend this - my friends - is a tricky one. For so long it seemed as if leopard prints was really only the preserve of middle aged barmaids or, well, Rod Stewart.

It would be fair to say that leopard is a tricky look to wear and, it divides fashion fans straight down the middle. On one side are those who can't wait to squeeze themselves into a figure hugging leopard print dress and matching heels. On the other, are those who take one look at a leopard print top and immediately have visions of Bet Lynch thrusting her leopard-print-encased cleavage over the bar of the Rover's Return.

The question you need to ask yourself now is: Are you a leopard-print kind of gal or not? It must be one of the few trends I've never worn in my life, possibly even the only one, and the main reason for this is that I associate leopard print with a tarty
look. Yet this fear is not shared by women in Italy and France, they stride through piazzas and sashay down boulevards in the kind of fake animal ensembles that would bring a blush to my freckled cheek.

For those teetering on the edge of the great pro and anti-leopard divide, there are a few basic rules. First, it always looks better on people with olive skins and dark hair - blondes risk looking a tad too much like a glamour model. Second, less is more, don't go the whole hog. Try a belt, a bag or a headband.

If you're a bit of a scaredy-cat, just opt for a printed scarf. But go wild in bold jeans if you're feline fearless. There are two main strands to the leopard print look: outerwear and eveningwear. A leopard-print coat is a striking thing indeed and a welcome antidote to all those dreary monochrome sacks for sale on the high street each winter.For a smarter look mix with black - it is also more slimming on problem areas. If you want to make a statement go for a stylish classic like a mac or a jacket.

A cardigan is a great way to update a pair of basic black trousers or a skirt. A-line shift dresses not only hide a multitude of sins but look stylish. And it's obvious why leopard print is such a perennial hit on eveningwear. Whether it's printed on chiffon, stretch cotton or picked out in sequins, it screams "sexy" like no other fabric does .

If you think a leopard cannot change its spots, think again. Leopard and tiger prints are clawing their way back into fashion. So why not add a little to your wardrobe - I promise you'll feel like the cat's meow.







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The secret to a perfect waist...corsets




Ilustration by Georgina Heffernan



When it comes to style – having a tiny waist has suddenly become the new national obsession. Cheryl Cole has a 25-inch waist. She used to have a 29-inch waist, apparently, but was so horrified by its size that she went on a strict diet. Victoria Beckham, at 23 inches, is so tiny that she can fit into the jeans of a seven year-old child. But Dita Von Teese trumps them all: sporting a 21-inch waist normally, with the help of a corset it shrinks to 16 inches - even smaller than the Edwardian ideal of 18 inches.

For centuries, women all over the world have wished for an hourglass figure or a petite waist. The English did it with camisoles, the French had corsets and they all had their own ideas on how to get the smallest of waists. Fashion and entertainment have been best buddies for ages. Therefore, during the era of the voluptuous Marilyn Monroe, women would do anything for that perfect waist and now the hourglass is back - thanks largely to the success of the cult TV show Mad Men, which has spawned a fifties style revival.

Corsets may prod your ribcage, leave you gasping for breath and make you look like an extra from a period drama but women have been wearing them for centuries and for one good reason they work.All of the major lingerie brands such as Agent Provocateur, Myla, Chantelle, and Victoria‘s Secretstock gorgeous corsetry - at an affordable price and these look so gorgeous you just might be tempted to wear them as a fashion statement.
So, whether you're updating your look or seeking new pieces for your winter wardrobe, a cinched-in waist is your ticket to super-style .Throw out those baggy summer smocks, dresses for this season are either body-skimming or belted to show off curves to the max. If you have a slightly fuller figure, hunt for clothes that sit a little higher on your torso, just above your actual waist. This slimmer area creates the illusion of a defined waistline. To finish your look, the accessory to reach for is a belt. The best way to wear them is on the natural waistline, accentuating an hourglass figure or suggesting one if you're not so curvy.

Most recently celebrities such as Katy Perry, Beyonce and Lady Gaga have inspired millions of women to splash out on designer corsets, so much so that stores are selling out left right and centre. Although known to be restrictive, painful and often the cause of certain maladies such as miscarriages and fainting fits, the corset has also been known to remedy back injuries. After a serious car accident, Andy Warhol had to resort to wearing one permanently to support the structure of his spinal area.



Luckily for us, Velda Lauder‘s custom made corsets take the pain of beautifying oneself away, as they are designed to be snug and comfy and yet still achieves that sleek silhouette of the voluptuous look as intended. They have been worn by various celebrities,such as burlesque model Dita Von Teese, Heidi Klum, Rebecca Loos, Charlotte Church and several other hourglass‘ devotees.
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Corset by Velda Lauder

"Corsets should always empower and enhance a woman," says Velda, "My corsets comfortably reduce the waist by 4 inches - giving a woman choice to look curvaceous on her own terms. My statement is ―the gift of the corset is its ability to free the inner strength and beauty of a woman in an instant".Six months in the gym or 5 minutes in a Velda Lauder corset, the results are similar. I see the corset as the great liberator in the size debate, the corset is the perfect antidote to the size zero issue. The corset gives woman the red carpet couture experience without oppressing her natural curves. The bigger the woman the better she looks in a corset,"Velda reveals.


Her beautiful vintage inspired pieces can be ordered on line through her website Veldalauder. co.uk. And they are perfect for special occasions such as weddings or balls and start from £200/ €233.50 but that‘s a small price to pay for the waist of your dreams.

"Lingerie shouldn't be something you just put on for your lover; you should do it for you, it's not about seducing men, it's about embracing womanhood."

 

- Dita Von Teese

 

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